Hiking in Cinque Terre: Riomaggiore to Portovenere: Alta Via step-by-step guide
A detailed, practical walkthrough of one of the most scenic and least crowded Cinque Terre hikes, with timings, navigation tips, and what to expect.
If you’ve already read our guide on how to plan a trip to the Cinque Terre, you’ll know that the area offers much more than the classic coastal paths.
The hike from Riomaggiore to Portovenere is one of the best examples and probably the most panoramic one. It follows sections of the Alta Via delle Cinque Terre (AV5T) and delivers a quieter, more rugged experience compared to the busy lower trails.
This is not a casual stroll. It’s a proper hike that requires attention, proper equipment and training.
Route overview
Duration: 5-6 hours (depending on pace and breaks)
Distance: approximately 13 km
Elevation gain: around 550 meters
Difficulty: moderate to challenging (not suitable for beginners)
Cinque Terre Card: not required
The itinerary
Riomaggiore can be easily reached by train or, more expensive, ferry boat. Avoid using cars as parking is very hard (and expensive).
The first section is where many hikers make mistakes. After visiting the beautiful center of Riomaggiore, you need to head uphill toward the “Cinque Terre Point”. From here follow the signs to the Madonna di Montenero, were the uphill path starts.
Follow red and white signs (the path is called “n. 3“ on some maps), not the coastal paths. It will soon become a series of (steep) stairs, climbing up. The climb starts immediately and can feel demanding, especially in warm weather. There are exposed sections with limited shade, so pacing yourself early is important.
After about 20 minutes you’ll cross a road, and keep following the uphill stairs.
Once you reach the Sanctuary of Montenero (approx 50 minutes after the departure), you’ll enjoy an amazing view that will let you see up to the island of Palmaria (in front of Portovenere, our destination).
Continue in direction East, the path continues behind the church now moderately uphill through vineyards until reaching an area called “Telegrafo“. If you see signs with this name, just follow them. Once reached it, you should follow signs for “Colle Telegrafo“ and then for “S. Antonio“, you are now on the AV5T.
You’ll cross an “outdoor gym“ located on the path, covering 2.5km of trail, along which you might also find a small bar.
Approx. 3.5 hours after the departure, you will arrive at “Campiglia”, a small village of few houses where you can find a small bar and a fountain with potable water (better not rely on it: it’s not always working!).
From now on you should follow the signs for “Portovenere“, still following East direction, you’ll walk along a ridge with some amazing wide views over the coastline and the open sea. It’s very scenic but also demanding trail due to its length and exposure. On your left side, on clear sky days, you’ll also be able to see the Apuan Alps, the main mountain chain of Tuscany.
Stay consistent with the AV5T markers and resist the temptation to take side trails. Some paths lead to small rural settlements or simply fade out. You’ll cross again a street, you need to continue through it for few meters, until you find other signs bringing you back on the path.
After a small slope reaching some military fortress ruins, you’ll start the final descent reaching the castle of Portovenere. Here you’ll be able to see in distance the church of Saint Peter, facing the sea. Here, the trail begins to descend toward Portovenere.
This final section can be physically taxing due to the slope and uneven terrain. Fatigue tends to set in here, so maintaining focus is important to avoid slips or missteps.
The arrival in Portovenere is direct and rewarding, with views opening up over one of the most striking coastal villages in Liguria and its peculiar church facing the sea.
If you are visiting in winter months you are likely to arrive here during the sunset, which is totally breathtaking.
Practical advice
This hike requires basic preparation. Proper hiking footwear is essential; lightweight sneakers are not sufficient. Bring at least 1.5 to 2 liters of water per person, especially important in warmer months, along with simple food like fruit or energy snacks and your on-the-go lunch. Sun protection is also necessary, as parts of the trail are exposed.
In terms of difficulty, this route suits people with some hiking experience or at least good general fitness. It is not ideal for beginners, young children, or anyone looking for an easy walk. The elevation gain is not too much, and it all focus at the very beginning of the trail in Riomaggiore, but the length of the path is might be more that you are used to.
The Cinque Terre Card is not required. This route stays largely outside the paid coastal trail network, which also explains the lower number of hikers.
How to get back from Portovenere
Once in Portovenere, the most practical way to return is by bus to La Spezia. The service is regular and inexpensive, you can buy the ticket at any “tabacchi” shop, or directly on the bus (with an extra fee). Alternatively, you can take a boat, which is slower but more scenic.
From La Spezia, trains connect back to the Cinque Terre villages frequently.
Common mistakes to avoid
Most issues on this hike come from navigation errors at the beginning or poor preparation. Taking the wrong initial path out of Riomaggiore is the most frequent problem. Underestimating the duration and starting late in the day is another.
Running out of water is a recurring issue in summer. Planning ahead avoids most of these problems.
Why this hike is worth it
Compared to the famous lower trails, this route offers a different perspective on the Cinque Terre. It’s quieter, more expansive, and less shaped by tourism.
For those willing to put in the effort, it delivers a more authentic and uninterrupted experience of the Ligurian landscape.
Where to sleep in Cinque Terre and other tips
If you are planning a longer stay, refer to our complete guide on how to organize a trip to the Cinque Terre. It helps you integrate this hike into a broader itinerary while keeping costs under control.
If you are visiting Italy from abroad you might want to get also some general information and reccommendations from a local on visiting Italy on a budget
FAQ
How long does the hike take?
Most people complete it in 5 to 7 hours.
Is it dangerous?
Not inherently, but it requires attention and proper preparation, since the length is considerably long.
Can you hike in Cinque Terre in summer?
It’s not suggestable from late June to end of September, due to very hot climate. However, if you’ll be there at that time, make sure to bring with you enough water for the whole day and a lot of sunblock.
Are there water sources along the way?
There should be some, but you should not rely on them. Carry all the water you need.
If you’re planning a trip to Italy, be sure to check out our recommendations for visiting the Cinque Terre:
Visiting Italy on a budget is possible, discover our guide:
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